Tag: salsa

  • Los Compas: A love letter to my favorite neighborhood food truck

    Los Compas: A love letter to my favorite neighborhood food truck

    Muy bueno!

    If you know me and are familiar with my track record as a food writer then you are well aware of my near obsession with food trucks.

    So when a taco truck opened up just a few blocks from us a couple of years ago I was both stoked and curious. Mind you, most of the tacos from said trucks that I have had the pleasure of getting acquainted with in my time here in Tucson have been either on the scale of “Yeah, this is good” to “Oh my god, this is fxxking amazing!”

    That doesn’t mean that I’ve had a few dogs of tacos. Not going to mention names but there have been the unfortunate few where I just stare at the taco and wonder “How the heck could they screw this up so bad?” Thankfully that notion is a rarity.

    Calling themselves Los Compas, this lil pink and white rig set up around the corner of Ft. Lowell and Mountain to little or no fanfare. Literally a shout and holler away from our bungalow. Driving by it once or twice it was around the third turn where I knew it was my time to sample the goods.

    If you see it you must come

    If memory serves correct I got a selection of items in the vein of ‘if they mess this up then we got a problem’. Like one or two tacos, a burrito and probably something else. Then I brought it back home for us to try.

    What memory does do me honest is that I immediately fell in love with the food. It was all so good. The chicken and carne asada was cooked and seasoned perfectly, the beans and rice were the same, fresh cabbage and tomatoes, juicy limes, tasty salsas, fantastic pickled red onions – all of it.

    Thank you taco truck gods for sending Los Compas to our fair neighborhood! But screw you too because its not like I’m chubby enough. Jeeze.

    One Sunday coming back from the farmers market I decided to get a bowl of their menudo, which they only serve on the weekends. A lot of people that I know are not fans of menudo, most of the white folks that is, but I have been a defender of the tripe and hominy filled brothy stew since my early days of living in San Francisco. It was there that my screaming hangovers were remedied by the magic that lives in that spicy brew accompanied by thick tortillas and, yes, a beer.

    Los Compas’ menudo did not disappoint. It brought me back to those heady days in the bay area only this time I was not suffering from the alco-fuel regrets of open bars, backstage coolers and general youth filled debauchery. It was just a chilly winter Sunday and that stuff really warmed me up.

    Landscape of the divine

    Owners Karina Salinas and Kevin Andrade are the kind of food truck owners and operators every aspiring chef or entrepreneur should study. They are always there; their product is consistent (and consistently good) and the prices they offer for the product you receive is spot on. Thank you Karina and Kevin. And, yes, today I will have a birria torta please. Gracias.

    One day I had noticed that Los Compas wasn’t in its usual spot. It had moved right on the corner of Mountain and Ft. Lowell and now boasted a cozy seating area inside of a casita. Ca-seat-a? Yeah, sorry. That nook boasted lots of family photos, twinkling lights and even a TV. So now as you enjoy a caramelo the size of your first born you can catch up with your telenovela stories. Did Juan cheat on Soledad with that temptress of a maid Paulina…again? Scandalo!

    Los Compas was doing great apparently and we all celebrated their success.

    That is, until, one day it was gone.

    Not like moved up or down the street as it did before. It was just plain not there. The truck was missing and the casita was closed and locked. Hey! What gives? What happed to our treasured Los Compas? We want answers!

    *fake riot ensues, pitchforks, torches, the whole bit*

    Time became legend, legend became myth and after about a year I would guess we still didn’t have our Los Compas. That stretch of Ft. Lowell was like one big phantom limb: we can still feel it but nothing was there.

    One of each please (image taken from Los Compas Facebook page)

    Until one day it miraculously reappeared. Parked right in front of the old Greek church on, yes, Ft. Lowell. When I saw it I screeched on my brakes like some angsty driver in an old Loony Tunes cartoon, my feet nearly went through the floor.

    Approaching the truck and seeing Karina behind the sliding screen I had to ask where she and Los Compas went. Apparently that spot up the street with the casita didn’t work out and they just needed some time to fix the truck, focus on catering while trying to find a place to park again.

    That Greek church has been empty for quite a while due to a fire causing more damage than they could afford to repair and the plot in front of it was nearly rent free. Once again, thank you food truck gods! Only this time in front of an actual church. Hallelujah!

    All was right with the world again. Well, not really. But our little midtown world is right having Los Compas back and, hopefully, here to stay. A year without my beloved chicken burrito with everything was a dark year indeed. In these trying and confusing times it’s always nice to know you can roll up to a familiar spot, hear that radio play boisterous Tejano music, grab a Mexican Coke (the only Coke you should ever drink by the way) and nosh on delicious comfort food.

    Gracias Los Compas. ¡Sois los mejores!

    This thing right here is what keeps me from being “not slim”

    Tacos Los Compas

    1245 E. Ft. Lowell.

    Weds – Sun : 10am – 5pm

    https://www.facebook.com/LosCompasDeTucson/

  • Copal Contemporary Mexican Cuisine

    Copal Contemporary Mexican Cuisine

    It sounds cliche but…expect the unexpected here

    When I heard that a new restaurant concept opened up in the old location where The Dutch resided in the Williams Courtyard Center at Broadway and Rosemont, and that the owners operate one of my favorite taquerias in South Tucson, my immediate giddiness could not be contained. Mainly because it was mere blocks from the house.

    At first glance of its name, anticipating that it would serve cuisine cumulating from areas south of our border, I read it as Comal. A comal, as you may or may not know, is a round cast iron pan used in kitchens across the entirety of South America and any and all cocinas here and abroad. But wait, that’s not an M, that’s a P. Copal?

    Using Google translate, I was quick to discover that copal translated into English was…copal. Huh.

    Camarones Al Ajillo

    When I entered the neon fused yet somehow comfortably lit restaurant and was met by co-owner and cocktail director Alex Bohon, I had to ask about the name of his new place.

    Copal is the incense used during Day of the Dead,” Bohon explained. “It’s a really pleasing scent and we always burn one before lunch and dinner service. Its helps ward off evil spirits and inspire good times.”

    At first glance of Copal, one is met with a sense of intimate invitation along with a cantina space due to the wellspring of agave bottles behind the bar. Along with the neon, which is delightfully subtle.

    Creative cocktails that don’t mess around

    Alex, along with his dad Ramon, opened up Copal in July of this year (2024) riding on the success of their previous endeavor, Taqueria La Esquina, which was mentioned earlier as being a personal go to for delicious Mexican street food and probably some of the best churros I have ever had the pleasure to get acquainted with. You will too.

    The first location the Bohon boys had their eye on was a spot of 4th Ave, a corner, yes, that is and was a revolving door of eateries and drinkeries that come and go all too frequently. So Alex and Ramon waited patiently until the right non-temporary residency opportunity arrived.

    Muy bueno!

    Not long after The Dutch shut its doors, the Bohon’s moved in and immediately knew that another taqueria concept in that area probably wouldn’t fly as well as it does on the corner of south 6th and Irvington.

    “Tucson is saturated with Sonoran and Mexican cuisine that’s been Americanized”, Alex states. “So we took inspiration from several regions and fused them together to make one harmonious family of Mexican flavors.”

    Alex Bohon (left) with chef Joshua Richards

    Copal’s original chef did not work out (like not at all, Alex notes) so it was time to get a seasoned and respected chef filled with bright ideas and knowledge of what Tucson likes to eat.

    Joshua Richards, formerly of the Jackrabbit Lounge, came aboard and worked with the Bohons on a menu that will delight, invite and at times even incite challenge to what we know about Mexican food and dining.

    First off, there are no chips and salsa served before your meal. That was something anyone can get anywhere Bohon and Richards determined. Secondly, no beans and rice on your plate. Once again, it’s been overdone and its another western influence they knew they had to move on from.

    Did…did we mention the amazing cocktails here?

    Copal is not set up for routine office parties or huge gatherings, as most cavernous Mexican restaurants are known for. Here, you sit with a loved one, or maybe two or three, quietly enjoying each other’s company and the savory food and sumptuous libations you are about to enjoy. Need a space for Brayden and Kayden’s birthday party? Yeah there’s a place a few blocks west of here that will take you.  

    The focus at Copal is a visceral ascension of dishes both familiar and completely unique.

    Take for example the Salmon Al Xocolate. If you read that as ‘chocolate’ and then went right to ‘mole’, you have then been misdirected. The wild caught salmon is marinated in soy and sesame then seared with ancho chiles and coco nibs. But, no, it is not mole.  Its something undeniably unto itself that needs to be experienced to be appreciated.

    Their Elote Ice Cream…unreal

    Its labeled an appetizer but the Camarones Chupate Los Dedos is a near formidable plate of butterflied shrimp, still in their shell, grilled then finished with a house special spicy sauce. Is it a little messy? A bit. Is it a little spicy. Oh sure. But is the full food adventure in the end worth it? Oh mucho si!

    There are of course plenty of vegetarian options. For a new taste tingle, go for the Roasted Wild Mushroom Medly, a bowl stacked with locally grown mushrooms which are roasted in a stone oven and served with a honey citrus yogurt. It can easily be vegan if you omit the yogurt but, honestly, you’re going to want that yogurt. It pairs and excels the dish so nicely. But the mushrooms on their own are still amazing.

    Copal is going to be the next formidable contender in the agave bar arena. Having tried their Tamarindo Paloma and Mexican Old Fashioned all I wanted to do was get up on that bar and perform some kind of heady cha cha. But Copal is a respectable environment so I just stuck to sipping while saying gracias.

    Wild mushroom medley

    Okay. Now here is where the day got even better, if not somehow complicated. Chef Joshua brought out their signature dessert: Elote Ice Cream. Shaped like an actual ear of corn, it’s a secret recipe vanilla flavored ice cream that is infused with cobs of freshly used corn. Yes. You heard correct. It may sound a bit odd but the second I took a bite I knew that I was invited to a party I was highly underdressed for. This was pure magic on a chilled plate. This is something that will not only bring everyone to the yard, but it will bring them to the endzone and then make a perfect kick for that extra point. Congratulations, you now have a new ice cream addiction.

    “We are proud to call ourselves a no waste kitchen,” Richards proudly boasts. “Even discarding corn cobs seemed like a bad option. So I threw them in our ice cream and, well, there you go!”

    With the experience of Taqueria La Esquina behind them, and the passion of Copal in front of them, Alex and Ramon Bohon are deliciously contributing to our fair city of gastronomy. So with a frosty agave cocktail in hand, and a belly full of innovative multi-regional fare in our bellies, all we can do is raise our glasses and proclaim salud!

    Copal

    5340 E. Broadway

    Monday – Thursday: 11am – 9pm

    Friday and Saturday: 11am – 10pm

    Sunday: 11am – 8pm

    http://www.copaltucson.com

    instagram.com/copaltucson

    Words and Photos by Mark Whittaker

    yeahwritemark@gmail.com

    520-861-4198